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Everything you need to nail every print.

The same setup steps and temperature recommendations we ship on the card in every order — so your first layer sticks and your parts pop off clean, every time.

Getting started

How to apply EZ-Stik

Clean, cut, stick. About two minutes, no glue or hairspray.

  1. 1

    Clean the print bed

    Make sure the platform is free of dust, debris, and old adhesive. Wipe it down with a solvent like 70% isopropyl alcohol so the sheet bonds fully and won’t peel mid-print.

  2. 2

    Trim the sheet to fit

    Using scissors, carefully cut the sheet to your printer’s bed before applying — it’s safer and easier than trimming once it’s down.

  3. 3

    Peel & stick from one edge

    Peel back 1–2" of the liner, line up and center one edge, then press the adhesive down with a finger as you slowly peel away the rest of the liner. Bubbles? Peel back and re-lay — it’s forgiving.

  4. 4

    Press firmly, edge to edge

    Once it’s on, press down firmly with your palm and go over the edges several times for full edge-to-edge adhesion.

Dial it in

Printer setup & leveling

Re-level after installing

Always re-level your build platform after applying EZ-Stik. Start with a slightly higher Z-home than usual and bring it down as needed.

Don’t squish the first layer

Squishing the first layer is a common trick for other surfaces — not here. EZ-Stik is engineered with the right amount of adhesion built in, so you don’t need to.

Check the first layer by eye

A good first layer looks solid and smooth. Too high and the lines won’t form a continuous surface; too low and it looks uneven and bumpy. Calipers help if you want it perfect.

Keep it clean

EZ-Stik is tolerant of fingerprints and dust, but a quick wipe with 70% isopropyl alcohol every 5–10 prints keeps your first layer reliable.

Recommended settings

Temperature settings

Starting points for EZ-Stik HOT. Every filament brand and printer is a little different, so treat these as a baseline and adjust from there.

Material
Bed
Nozzle
Notes
PLA
50–60°C
200°C
—
ABS
100–110°C
230°C
Enclosure recommended
PETG / PETT
70–80°C
230°C
Start low, raise as needed
Nylon
30–50°C
230°C
240°C max on first layer
Flexible (TPU)
50°C
230°C
—
Never exceed 110°C on the bed — hotter doesn’t help adhesion and shortens the sheet’s life.
Keep the first layer ≤ 240°C for nylon and PETG; raise the nozzle afterward if the filament calls for it.
Warping? Raise the bed 10°C. Hard to remove? Lower it 10°C.
By material

Printing tips by filament

PLA — bed 50–60°C, nozzle 200°C
With a good first-layer height and the right temps, PLA rarely gives trouble on adhesion or removal. If large or sparse parts warp, add a brim (about 1" is enough for most difficult parts) and confirm the surface is clean. Large, flat PLA parts like lids or signs can be stubborn to lift because of their surface area — re-heating the bed to about 60°C softens the PLA so you can peel it off with less force.
ABS — bed 100–110°C, nozzle 230°C
ABS is more demanding than PLA but rewards you with great-looking parts. The bed must reach at least 100°C — if your printer can’t get that hot, ABS will be a struggle. An enclosure is highly recommended to keep air temperature up and stop the ABS from cooling and shrinking. Keep the bed clean, and once the print finishes let it cool to room temp — parts should release easily.
PETG / PETT — bed 70–80°C, nozzle 230°C
There’s a lot of variation between PETG and PETT brands. Start on the low side — 70°C, even down to 60°C — and raise the bed only as needed to stop peeling. Don’t exceed 240°C on the first layer, then increase the nozzle to the filament’s spec afterward. PETG can grip hard; if a part is tough to remove, heat the surface to 50–60°C to soften the plastic.
Nylon — bed 30–50°C, nozzle 230°C (240°C first layer)
Nylons vary a lot, and many are blended with other materials — always experiment with an unfamiliar nylon. Start with a lower bed temperature and raise it to prevent warping; some nylons even print well at room temperature. Most nylons want a nozzle above 240°C, but keep the first layer at or below 240°C — the slower first-layer speed usually makes this a non-issue. To remove, a plastic scraper helps, and warming the bed to 50–60°C softens the part.
Flexibles (TPU) — bed 50°C, nozzle 230°C
Flexibles print well on EZ-Stik HOT with a warm bed. As with every material, dial in your first-layer height and keep the surface clean for consistent results.
After the print

Part removal & care

Let it cool completely

EZ-Stik is designed to release parts once the surface has cooled to room temperature. Most parts take little to no force once cool.

Remove gently

Parts typically come up by hand. You may need to “pop” a corner with a plastic tool to release. Metal tools are not recommended, since they can damage the surface.

Re-warm stubborn parts

Large, flat parts with lots of surface area can hold on. Re-heat the bed to about 50–60°C to soften the plastic and peel them off with far less force.

Clean every 5–10 prints

A quick wipe with 70% isopropyl alcohol keeps adhesion reliable and extends the life of the sheet. One sheet lasts up to 100 prints.

Printer compatibility

Find the exact sheet & size for your printer

Browse 50+ popular printers, or enter your bed size for any printer ever made.

Browse printers →

FAQ

Will it fit my printer?
Yes — EZ-Stik ships oversized and cuts to any bed with household scissors. Use the printer finder for the closest fit, or enter your bed size.
Does it work over a textured PEI plate?
EZ-Stik HOT lays over your existing plate and gives a smooth, consistent surface with strong adhesion for ABS/PETG/nylon — and a glassy bottom finish most stock plates can’t match.
How long does one sheet last?
A single sheet gives you up to 100 prints with good care. When adhesion finally fades, peel and apply a fresh sheet in minutes.
Which filaments does EZ-Stik HOT work with?
EZ-Stik HOT is built for heated beds and handles everything from PLA and PETG to tougher engineering materials like ABS, nylon, and flexibles. Strong adhesion while hot, clean release once the bed cools.
Do you ship internationally?
We ship worldwide from the USA. US orders over $35 ship free.

Troubleshooting

First layer won’t stick
Clean the surface with 70% isopropyl alcohol, then check your level and Z-offset — a good first layer looks solid and smooth. Match the bed temp on the chart above, and raise the bed 10°C if you’re still fighting adhesion. A slightly slower first-layer speed helps too.
Parts stick too hard when cool
Let the bed cool fully to room temperature — EZ-Stik releases as it cools. For large, flat parts with lots of surface area, re-heat the bed to about 50–60°C to soften the plastic and peel the part off with less force. Lower the bed temp 10°C on future prints.
Warping on large or sparse parts
Confirm the first layer is good and the surface is clean, then add a brim — about 1" is enough for most difficult parts. Raising the bed 10°C also helps, and for ABS an enclosure keeps the part from cooling and shrinking.
Bubbles under the sheet
Peel back to the bubble, smooth outward from the center with a card, and re-lay. Small bubbles away from the print area won’t affect results.
Sheet lifting at the edges
Make sure the bed was clean and dry before applying, and that you pressed the edges down several times. Trim any overhang past the heated zone — overhanging film can catch and lift.